The Brandolinis’ Bahian Rhapsody

W MAGAZINE

“Silvana Viera da Conceição, a native Trancosan who opened one of the first restaurants on the Quadrado 30 years ago, still recalls the day in 1970 that the first biribanda arrived in town, wearing an ankle-length hippie skirt and countless strands of beads. “We were so afraid—we thought she was a gypsy,” da Conceição says. “Everyone ran home to tell their families to lock up the chickens.” But the hippies won over the locals soon enough and began planting the trees that now shade the square. Several of the original biribandos are still around…”