Brazil: the laid back charms of Trancoso

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“Trancoso and nearby Arraial D’Ajuda are alive with other idiosyncratic shops. Our favourites were all on the Quadrado – Lemanja, for hollow ceramic saints drilled full of holes and made into marvellous lamps; Marcenaria, which sells locally designed and made wooden snakes, monkeys heads and other knick knacks in surprisingly good taste (and a graphic illustration of the incredible versatility of the coconut).

There is also a wonderfully eccentric ceramicist here called Calazans, next to Gulab Mahal.”